We planned a trip to Hawaii back in 2019 but the pandemic put an end to those plans so we were super excited to finally get to make the trip in October of 2022. Below is a little summary of where we stayed, what we did and where we ate. We will even give some helpful tips if you plan on visiting Maui in the near future!
Where we stayed
We picked our accommodations the old fashioned way…. Google. We read what seemed like a hundred blogs and reviews trying to decide what part of the island was best and in the end we decided on Kihei. There were two factors that weighted the decision. Location and Price. Kihei was most central to both sides of the island and the condo we rented was reasonably priced which was not easy to find. Our condo was walking distance to the beach, shopping, etc. We had a rental car but we found it really convenient to just walk to diner or the beach on days we weren’t venturing out.
We used VRBO to rent a Maui Vista Condo and had an Ocean View Top Floor Condo. The accommodations were nothing spectacular but it served its purpose. We specifically wanted a condo with Washer and Dryer and one with AC. This one had both but upon arrival we realized that the air conditioner was a window unit in the living room and while we had a separate bedroom we ended up spending the evenings on the pull out couch. While the temperature in Hawaii is nice year round, the AC was definitely needed during the time we were there!
If and when we return to Maui we would find different accommodations. There were some condos we found that were available but were not listed on Airbnb or VRBO. Lesson learned….
Things we did and places we visited
We have to start this section by recommending the app GypsyGuide. This app was a lifesaver and was the most cost effective tool we used during our visit to Maui! For less than $20 you can download a self guided GPS audio tour for the entire island. We used it everyday and can’t imagine our trip without it.
Road to Hana – This is probably the most famous activity in Maui. It is a day trip and is comprised of taking a drive from whatever location you are at all the way to Hana, which is will take you through the northwestern part of Maui. The drive is beautiful, but the stops along the way are what you should look forward to the most. Most tourist will take the drive to Hana and drive back the same day so you want to get an early start. GypsyGuide to the rescue!!! This GPS audio app knew exactly where we were on the drive and would give us a heads up to must-do stops, viewpoints, hikes, and waterfalls to watch out for on the drive. The app even recognized we were headed back home the same route and gave us different audio which included some history of Maui.
Nakalele Blowhole – This blowhole shoots geysers that can reach as high as 100 feet in the air every few minutes. There are two trail options that lead to this blowhole and we opted for the second one which was a little more steep and very rocky but you have nice views of the blowhole the entire hike down. We got about half way down and stopped to enjoy the view instead of getting up close and personal. Later in our trip we will revisit this site from a different perspective.
Waikiki Falls via Pipiawi Trail (part of the Haleakala National Park) – This hike is a 3.8 mile out and back trail near Hana. It is moderately challenging so make sure you pack water and snacks as it will take over 2 hours to complete and make sure you start this earlier in the day to give you ample time before sunset. It goes without saying that the waterfalls are all beautiful and magical in their own right but one of the things we loved most about this hike was the peaceful bamboo forest we walked through on the way to Waikiki Falls. Absolutely beautiful! To access this trail you do have to enter Haleakala Park parking lot and pay a fee for your vehicle but it was good for 3 days and will give you access to other parks on Maui. We used the pass to visit Haleakala Summit later during our trip.
Helicopter tour of Malaki – We opted for the OPEN DOOR Helicoptor tour of Maui and Molaki. The only helicopter tour company that offered this was Maui Air. We actually booked this through a local vendor at one of the markets near our condo. The lady was really nice and made all the reservations and even gave us her suggestions on nearby restaurants, etc. Upon arriving at Maui Air we realized that she made a mistake on the receipt and while she did “book” the open air helicopter ride the receipt she printed wasn’t correct. Maui Air called the vendor that sold the ticket and asked her to correct it and she stated that we didn’t purchase the open air tour. Needless to say we were very disappointed because it was obvious we paid for the correct tour – the receipt was wrong. Prior to getting too aggravated we were able to settle the miscommunication and the OPEN DOOR ride was in our near future! After review of prices we would suggest you book direct with Maui Air. We didn’t save any money from booking through the vendor and felt a little taken advantage of after the whole experience. Once everything was said and done we probably both agree this was our favorite part of our vacation.
Pete initially was a little uneasy about the open door part so he opted to sit in the middle(next to the pilot) and I sat on the edge. After the ride Pete wishes he had opted to sit near the open door. We got to view the waterfalls that are in the opening scene of Jurassic Park, Mount Waialeale Weeping Wall, just to name a few. Each more magnificent than the last. We then crossed over the Pacific to the island of Molokai. While flying over Molokai you get amazing views from the air of the tallest sea cliffs in the world (and don’t worry, I already googled that and can confirm they are in fact the largest sea cliffs in the world) reaching 3,315 ft above sea level! Maui Air did an amazing job and our captain was very informative. If you wanted to splurge on anything, this should be at the top of your list!
Scuba Diving – Pete has been diving most of his adult life but I only began diving about 5 years ago. I have been fortunate to go to some pretty spectacular dive spots since I got certified. Hawaii has always been on the bucket list to dive so we had our bags ready weeks before we departed to Maui. We didn’t stay at a “dive resort” so this makes things a lot more complicated in regards to diving while on vacation. We had to pack up and carry our gear back and forth each day we dove. Those that dive can understand the additional difficulties this entails. Main difficulty was that our condo did not allow us to put any gear on our balcony. So rinsing and letting our gear hang dry in our condo was a feat to say the least. In the end, our dive boat and dive crew were great. Not the most spectacular diving we have done but we are a little spoiled in that respect. If you dive and are making the trip all the way to Hawaii the diving is well worth it. For us, comparing to other dive vacations it wasn’t top on our list but we are glad we took the opportunity to swim with the fishes on this trip!
Makena Beach – While we had a beach within walking distance from our condo we heard great things about Makena Beach (aka Big Beach) so we decided to pack up and make the short drive to check it out. There is a public parking lot and we were the first to pull in that morning. This is a beautiful beach and we enjoyed just relaxing as there were only a handful of visitors while we were there. There were warning signs out and even on duty life guards reminding visitors that this beach has a dangerous Wave Break. It was fine for us to jump in to cool off but not an area safe for small children, etc. If you weren’t paying attention the Wave Break could take out an adult easily as we saw more than once.
Haleakala Summit – A very popular activity is heading to Haleakala Summit to watch the sunrise which we had intended on doing. You have to reserve a spot to get in the park as it has limited capacity. I tried for several days to get tickets as you can’t get them too far in advance and they sell out quickly. One of the dive masters on our scuba boat stated he thought it was better during the day so we decided to make a day trip out of it. The day we went was clear and the view was unreal as we took the winding road all the way to the top! You could see what seemed like every inch of the island below. We had clear views to the West part of Maui when we could see Puu Kukuii mountain peak which on most days is hidden beneath a cluster of clouds. The driver of your vehicle will feel like they got the short end of the stick since you have to keep your eyes on all 20 plus miles on this drive. Not only do you deal with sharp turns and steep drop offs, you also have crazy bicyclist that are taking the opportunity to get dropped off en route to the summit just to coast down the shared roads with motorist. While we both love adventure, we couldn’t quite get over how dangerous it seemed which is why the park service has prohibited the activity from the summit itself. With a constant parade of cars and tour vans using the same narrow road it just seemed too dangerous for us. Now maybe 10 years ago we would have been all for it. We spent a little time taking photos from the summit then headed down. We swapped drivers to allow each of us to take in the views but unfortunately the weather had caught up with us and the clouds rolled in. While driving through the clouds was an experience in itself, those same clouds blocked some of the spectacular view we saw on the way up. So pick this activity on a clear day to get the most out of it!
Hoapili Trail to Hanamanioa Point Lighthouse – This was a 3.6 mile moderately challenging hike. Not challenging in elevation just in terrain (be sure and wear appropriate hiking shoes). If using an app like AllTrails you will notice there is a section of the trail that goes along the coast. We opted to take that route even though it was’t highlighted as part of the main trail. So we just stayed to the right as we hiked and it was well worth it. I feel like many people may miss the best part of this trail by not being a little adventurous and hiking along the cliffs. Keep in mind that if you have small children in your group this is probably not the option you would want to take. On the way back we opted to hike back through the lava fields (also is not shown as the highlighted part of the trail on the app) which was beautiful just in a different way. This trail offers a little bit of everything, beach, cliffs, lava fields, and of course the feral goats we met along the way. NOTE – don’t hold your breath for a lighthouse but you will see where one once stood. We would highly recommend this hike!
The same day we did the Hoapili Trail we stopped and snorkeled in a small cove in the Ahihi Kinau Reserve. The interesting tidbit about this cove is it is adjacent to a home owned by Steven Tyler of Aerosmith. Literally you can snorkel out in front of the property he owns. Side note: I actually stayed in that house prior to Steven Tyler purchasing it. Back in 2007 I was in Maui visiting friends that were staying at this home. The snorkeling here is amazing. As an avid scuba diver I can tell you that the fish and coral in this cove was as beautiful as what I saw while scuba diving in Maui. The issue is that there is no parking at this cove. So you will need to park just a couple hundred yards up from the cove in a public parking spot and walk along makena road and when you get to the cove you literally just walk in to the water, there is no beach with exception of a few rocks and trees to stash your shoes, towel and car keys. If you love the water and snorkeling then this is a must do stop!
Catching Waves – Maui is a great island for surfing, especially for beginners. We chose Maui Waveriders as it was just a short walk from our condo. On their website their slogan says “Specializing in Beginners & Cowards”; We like to think of ourselves as beginners and not the latter. Our instructor was awesome! We both got the basics down and were able to catch a few waves! Visible from the shore you can see the small islands of Kaho’olawe and Lanai which were not only beautiful, they made this the perfect spot for beginners by providing consistent swells to learn on.
Where we ate
Below is a list of the places we ate and our quick review. Most everywhere we ate was specifically selected due to our research on best places to eat in Maui and from personal suggestions from locals we met during our visit:
Fabiano’s Bakery and Pizzeria – One of the first places we ate was Fabiani’s Bakery and Pizzeria. One of our dive masters on our boat recommended this as it was a personal friend of his that owned it. We had a great meal and had a nice bottle of wine.
Maui Brewing Company – Lahaina – We usually love local breweries when traveling. We have always been pleasantly surprised by the food and service when checking out local breweries. Unfortunately Maui Brewing Company fell way below par both with food and service. If we had to repeat we wouldn’t go again.
Monkey Pod Kitchen – Wailea – We had read and been told by several locals that Monkey Pod had the best Mai Tai’s on the island. And they absolutely did! The food was great as well. Like everything else, a bit pricey but well worth it. Even if just to try the Mai Tai’s!
Cafe O’Lei – Kihei – Just down the street from our condo was Cafe O’Lei. This was suggested to us and since it was so convenient we stopped by a couple of times. Service was great and food was good as well.
Outrigger Pizza Co – This is a pizza food truck and we just found by accident one night when we were wanting something quick and easy. Pizza was fantastic!
Coconuts Fish Cafe – You haven’t had fish tacos until you have had them from Coconuts Fish Cafe. This is one of the few places we went to more than once. They may seem pricey, (but to be honest everything on this island is pricey), but we realized after our first visit that one order of the tacos includes two and is plenty to share.
Maui Burger – It may seem silly to try a burger place while on the island but this one took us by surprise. We were on our way home from a long day of completing the Road to Hana and we were looking for something quick and easy. Maui Burger was in a strip mall by the grocery store we had frequented during our visit. They had specialty burgers and while I can’t remember the exact burgers we ordered they were all delicious. They had ample outdoor seating in their food courtyard and it was the perfect ending to a fabulous day!
Local Poke – you will see this recommended from many resources and we will add to that list. The Poke at Safeway (yes the grocery store) is some of the best we found on the island. We purchased it more than once during our two week stay. Super Fresh and Delicious!
Three’s Bar and Grill – This bar and grill was just a block or two from our condo. Once we arrived we realized this restaurant had been feature on Triple D (one of our favorite foodie shows) twice! Their fusion flavors and dishes were amazing, and it goes without saying, also a little pricey, so if you have a chance to dine here their happy hour prices cant be beat and they are noted as one of the top happy hours on Maui.
Hali’imaile General Store – This is a pretty popular spot so reservations are recommended. This was a great lunch location and not only was the meal amazing, you can walk across the street to Makai Glass, a local artist shop and watch the glassmakers in action while touring their gallery.
Mama’s Fish House – If you can get a reservation, a must at least once. We say that because if you want to add to your list you should try and make reservations three months or more in advance. We didn’t make reservations that early on so we had to setup notifications on Open Table and be ready at a moments notice to pick up a last minute opening. Mama’s Fish House is on the pricey side of options on the island but the location and service is second to none! Food was amazing and we enjoyed a view during our meal that is one of a kind as this restaurant is right on the beach.
Local Cafe’s and Road Side Vendors – Local Cafe’s, Road Side Fruit Stands as well as Hawaiian BBQ vendors are all over the island and we recommend stopping if you have the chance. We stopped at several throughout our stay and not only does it support locals it can be a perfect break for any day! And who can pass up fresh local Banana Bread!
Tips or what we learned
Gypsy Guide – This app is a must for anyone visiting Maui! This app gives you GPS self guided tour all over the island.
Rent a nice umbrella for the beach – While your condo may have an umbrella for you to use you may want to evaluate the type provided and just spend an extra few bucks and get a rental for the duration of your stay. The rentals are much nicer and we found provided better sun protection than the one we used that was provided by our condo.
Hiking Tips – Get used to the rain – don’t be afraid to get muddy – pack a poncho, extra shoes, bug spray and a carefree attitude. Be prepared to make a quick change of plans due to weather or unexpected conditions. Enjoy all that nature has to offer, the good and the bad! One thing to note is that you want to watch the weather. Most trails have warnings that flash floods may occur. Remember that in Hawaii it can and will rain at a moments notice so make sure you have planned your hikes according to weather and time of day.
Rental Car info – Rental cars are going to be a big expense during a vacation on the any of the Hawaiian islands. Both are expensive and hard to come by if you don’t plan early. Our suggestion is the book early and search out alternate options outside of the standard rental companies. There are services kind of like Airbnb for rental cars. We opted to use “Go Rent A Car Maui” rental company and it worked out great. Just do your own research to find the best deal for your visit. Just keep in mind this can be a big part of your budget but for us it was worth having our own car based on what we planned on doing during our visit. I couldn’t imagine doing everything we did without one.
The Modern Nomads 